Train travel has been said to be the most humane way to travel: You have your own bed, place to eat, restaurant if you wish, toilet, people to engage with and the time to reflect on the distance you are covering, plus the chance to see it out the window, slowly making your way west, changing the time by one or two hours when you cross time zones. We have spent many days on trains since we left home, are getting quite used to it, and have adapted quite well to it. We have our routine, favourite bunks, favourite meals, and favourite travel clothing, amongst many other things.
There is also, along the way, moments of joy, pain, sadness and
anticipation. The joy, for instance, of meeting other people. So far in
Russia, the people we have met have been locals, moving home from work
or to a job, going to see friends or family, or any other reason. The
ones we have been lucky to meet have been Vladimir and his coworker
Alexey, Dima, Anatoli and Irene and not to forget Yarolslav (who we
didn't meet on the train but was incredibly helpful and generous to us
in helping us cross lake Baikal and inviting us to his house in Moscow,
and showing us an incredible time both on the lake and in his home).
The pain we have felt has been in being sick while on board, or
awkward situations with grumpy babushkas, or local rhinos, awful sleep
or just smashing my head constantly on the upper bunk (I haven't adapted
to having short hair yet, I had a curly buffer zone between my head and
objects for so long). Nothing too painful to note really, but it is
worth mentioning.
Sadness comes in departing the new friends we have met along the
road. It's hard to explain but on the train (or just in travel in
general) the friendships are short lived but often intense as the
communication is never easy. Sometimes you have to get really creative
to get a message through. One such moment that sticks out for me was
when a man (who spoke only russian) was, after learning that I was a
teacher, disappointing when I didn't know a specific author. After
explaining to him that I was a math teacher, the lady opposite me tried
to communicate by giving me a formula to factor. After doing the
problem, she made a gesture and, what I assume, explained to the guy
that I may not know literature but I do speak the language of math which
is international. She was also a math teacher, we got along well.
You also share a very small living space with these people. It's
like going from meeting someone on the street to being their prison mate in
moments. You eat with them, sleep next to them, smell them, hear
everything and get in their way and them in yours. Sometimes you just tolerate
them, but when the friendship develops, it is hard to see them go after
the few hours you spend with them.
The anticipation comes just before you arrive to the train, the anticipation to move, to travel and sometimes, just to arrive.
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